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Shifter - Silver2

Regular price $35.00 USD
Regular price Sale price $35.00 USD
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Short story: These are friction shifters with a light ratchet. They don't index. They are beautiful, versatile, wonderful, and require skill. They're easy, though.

These are compatible with up to 9 speed rear derailers only. Not compatible with SRAM rear derailers.

Choose the X for a right-hand (inside) thumby or a left-hand bar end

Choose the O for a left-hand (inside) thumby or right-hand bar end

Longer story: They're our 2020 model version of SunTour’s 1982 XC mountain bike thumb shifter. We copied what was perfect: The idea, the guts, and the shape. We surgically inserted the SILVER1 guts (the light ratchet inside, which SunTour dubbed “power ratchet.” It’s a slight improvement over the original SunTour ratchet. 

We polished them better and designed a more versatile mount, so now you can put them nearly anywhere, super conveniently—thanks to the hinged clamp—and most wonderfully, you can point the cable exit barrel in sixteen different directions, instead of three. Sixteen is ridiculous, of course, but we wanted the fineness-of-increment, not the quantity. There's no drawback or complication, it's just a bunch of notches, like more teeth on a cog.

These have been a long time in the making; more than five years, and three and a half years of designing and prototyping. They’ve been stupidly expensive, the details of which we’re not going to divulge because it would make us look like stupid businesspeople. 
But they are worth it. They came out better than we’d hoped at our most idealistic because they took so long and we discovered theretofore unrealized possible improvements on the way.

You get more than a widget. Buying these means buying into an approach to gear that is curiously freakish these days, and has been for 35 years. It’s the idea that a mechanism or tool can be mechanically perfect and virtually un-improvable, while at the same time allowing its user to flub up a shift. 
If you want skill-free perfect shifts, and a lot of the time that makes sense, get indexing. If you want to work harmoniously with your mechanical-object bicycle, if you enjoy that level of control and are willing to accept the possibility of flubbed shifts as hey no biggie, then get these.

The SILVER2 shifters are beautiful, mechanically honest (they don’t shift for you, but they give immediate and accurate feedback, so you learn quickly), and are an anachronism in 2020.

Friction shifting isn’t hard, but it takes practice, and these days you can buy shifters that shift for you.

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This is how to shift:

1. Pedal like normal until your right foot reaches 4:30. SHIFT.

2. Float your right foot to 12:00 and let your left foot move to about 6:00 but with ZERO pressure on it. (let it move, no pressure on either pedal) until it reaches 12:00. If you truly "floated" the pedals, by the time your right one reaches 12:00 (sometimes 1:00), the shift will be complete, and you can power on or whatever.

If you tension the chain by pushing EVEN A LITTLE on the pedal during the FLOAT stage, the chain will be too tensioned to move to the next cog. To drive home how important it is to detention the chain, get off your bike, push down on the pedal with maybe ten pounds of force, and then push the upper section of the chain inward. Don't drive the bike forward, just push down on the pedal and push the chain inward, toward the tire. 

You'll see the chain doesn't move. 

Now unweight the pedal and try it. It wiggles inward easily. This is the state the chain must be in for the shift to take.

INDEXING doesn't overcome a stiff chain. When you shift in index, the shift still happens the same way--only when the chain is slack. 

If the above lesson seems hard, it isn't. Try it. If you don't want to learn to shift, you can still have a great time riding a bike with indexed shifting.

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As stated above but it can't be said too often: These shifters give immediate and honest feedback, which means you'll learn fast. They are as good as you are.

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Here’s how to buy shifters, depending on how you set them up:

SILVER2-O:  Bar-end RIGHT, Thumby LEFT (inside or behind the bar)

SILVER2-X: Bar-end LEFT, Thumby RIGHT( inside or behind the bar)

For thumb shifters, the O mounts on the LEFT, inside the bar. The X mounts on the RIGHT, inside the bar. Think of the animal OX. The O is on the left, etc. 

For bar-end shifters, it's the opposite. You can remember this by considering that in the real alphabet, O comes before X, and we read from left to right, so the X goes on the left and the O goes on the right, which is just the opposite of the way we read.

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These are sold as the shifter only. If you are confused about which to buy, please send an email or call

Find the thumb mounts here

You can also buy our bar end pods here to mount Silver2 shifters onto the ends of most of the bars we sell.

 

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Shifter cables and housing 

Here's how you mount these to Bar Pods

Here's how you moun these as thumb shifters

 

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(They aren't compatible with Paul Thumby mounts. This isn't an oversight or a defect. We started from scratch and didn't copy anything. It works great.)

*These will shift up to 11 speeds when used with, are you holding onto your hat?—when used with a 9/8 speed rear derailer. The latest 10/11/+ rear derailers require more cable to be pulled making them no good but a 9 speed rear derailer will still shift through an 11-speed cassette easily. Match your chain to your cassette, and the 9sp rear derailer works!