Crank - Clipper Triple - 48t x 36t x 26t
This is the smartest and most versatile triple crank on the market, and is almost too smart and all-around good to even exist in these weirdo times.
It has about a 161mm to 165mm Q Factor (outside-to-outside width), depending on what length spindle on which you mount it. In the old days we'd consider that wide, but by modern standards it's smack dab medium.
On road bikes with straight (normal) chain stays, mount it on a 107-110mm square taper BB (JIS). If your bike has bowed-out chain stays like most mountain bikes, it might need a 113mm. Unlike most cranks, it also comes in a 165mm arm length.
110/74 bolt circle design.
Before installation, be sure to make sure all the chainring bolts are tight; and if a bolt and nut is a spinning, here's the special tool to keep it from doin so.
Available in your choice of lengths: 170mm, 172.5mm and 175mm.
And for all you torque-spec types: 320-390 inch pounds.
And yes, you're not imagining things, these are made with the same tooling and in the same factory as the old XD2 cranks we used to sell.
**** A few secret tips to loosen the hidden chainring nut:
-most of the time the bolt and nut will give way if a you loosen the bolt with a sudden, fast counter clockwise rotation.
-if the nut spins with the bolt no matter how fast and hard you spin the bolt, drip a little penetrating oil (wd-40) and let it soak in a few minutes
-use a small flat head screwdriver or something really thin and flat - like a fingernail file - and stick it in the slot of the chainring nut in between the crank arm and chainring to prevent the hidden chainring nut from spinning when you simultaneously loosen the chainring bolt.
-if the nut is still spinning, wedge something (a piece of hardwood, a fat screwdriver, a tire lever, etc) the size of the gap (5-6mm) between the hidden nut and crank arm to prevent the hidden nut from spinning when unscrewing the bolt.