is our fourth handlebar to the first three: Drops (Noodle and Mark’s),
Moustache H’bar, Albatross. I/Grant am totally against massive selection
and the confusion and choice paralysis it leads to, so for us to enter a
new bar, it has to complement, not hugely overlap the others. In a
selection of four good handlebars, some overlap is inevitable, but a new
bar has to have something unique that, not always, but sometimes, makes
tons of sense.
Here’s how it’s different:
Higher rise even
than Albatross bar. Grip is about four inches above the grip—almost
twice as high as the Albatross grip. If you find the Albatross grip
plenty high enough, don’t give the Bosco Bar points for being even
It comes back a lot. Way back. So far back that it’s probably
too much retreat for a normal road bike, but could be ideal for a
It’s straight on each side of the stem, so you get a
good, natural time-trial position (also good for fast riding anywhere).
The Bullmoosey version has its own built-in stem, but the V-part still
allows a good grip.
Here’s its best use:
- Longish top tube bikes and upright riding. Mountain bike conversions to supa-comfee cruisers.
Making too-small bikes fit and feel better. Know somebody---maybe your
girlfriend or wife---who (like my wife used to) still “holds” the
handlebar with her fingertips? The Bosco Bar will fix that instantly.
If you have one of those iBert child seats and you find yourself
awkwardly reaching about the child, this bar will fix that, too.
Here are some set-up tips:
with the grip part angled slightly down. Hey, about seven degrees or
so. Don’t measure it. Try that, and raise or lower to suit.
like the height and straight part but don’t like or need or want the
grand amount of retreat, then cut off some. Keep enough room for a grip,
brake lever, shifter, bell—whatever you want to fit onto the straight
Consider shortening the grip to hand-size, then shifting the
brake lever back to butt against the grip. This lengthens the upper grip
area in front of the brake lever (or shifter, too, if you have that
there). Even with a non-shortened grip, you have a really good second
hand position. But a shortened grip makes it true “full hand”, and you
may like that.
If you have cork grips, you have at least two shortening options:
way: Slide grips onto handlebar. Grab with hand, mark where to cut, and
cut with a sharp knife. You won’t do a perfect job, but it’ll be good
enough. Mark the cut-off area with tape first? As you wish.
Grinding wheel way: Yep, grind away the cork on a wheel.
Bosco Bar is a wonderful bar. It makes even the most uncomfortable
bikes comfortable---really. It’s transforming. It’s not magic, it’s not
the material, it’s not design genius, it’s just the higher, close grip.
It’s the most multi-position handlebar we’ve used. The wide one has 39
inches of USABLE & EXCELLENT hand space. Every grip is natural
And like all of our bars (except the Dove), it's bar-end shifter compatible.
Here’s how you decide which variant, if any:
If you are a woman or city rider, go for the cromo 55 or alu 52. It’s wide enough and
fits between parked cars and traffic with 3cm more clearance than the
58cm. The 55 is only 1.5cm narrower per side. Sounds like a little, but
it’s more than half an inch, and that’s big enough for something to
hurt. Besides, the 1.5cm narrower per side is noticeable. A narrower bar
slows steering, a wider one speeds it up, and the diff btw 55 and 58 is
noticeable, but not enough to make one good and the other bad.
If you’re a guy or an open roads and trails rider, get the 58. The extra
width is something you might not notice if all we had was the 55, but
since we have the 58, go for it—-if you’re a trails-riding, open
Get the aluminum 58 if you are tempted to ask the weight difference. Get
the CrMo if you don’t care about the few-ounces weight difference, and
want o save a few $ or so.
Get the Moosey
if you want style and stiffness and extra strength and
don’t need a 55cm bar, and trust us to have spec’d this non-adjustable
handlebar to suit pretty much anybody.
Context: Each of these passes EN Mtn handlebar tests, which are the
strictest, most ridiculous handlebar tests out there. Some carbon bars
do, too, but a metal bar maintains way more of its strength as it ages,
and certainly suffers wear and cuts better.
You can get roughly the same shape handlebar cheaper. Nitto's Promenade
bar is a mini-one of these. It is a city bike bar for light riders, NOT a
long-termer for all-around use, including hard stuff. WALD makes a
similar bar, steel and all, but it's not CrMo, and certainly wouldn't
pass EN tests. And there are, no doubt, others.
Nitto makes the best handlebars in the world. And, from an
importer/wholesaler's point of view, also the most expensive. Bosco bars
"enjoy" a minimal margin, because at some point they have to be
price-competitive with bars that aren't as good and don't cost as much
from the manufacturer. Once you have one, though, you really, honestly,
no BS---do have the best.
Since this bar is steel, please squirt some boesheild inside the bar and roll the goop around before installing it on your bike.